Hanoi – A World Class Golf Destination  04:57, 04/02/2025

In the context of history, three decades is a mere heartbeat but still time for the unimaginable to happen e.g. consider the technologies which have increasingly consumed our lives since, say, 1993!  That was also the same year that Vietnam’s bustling capital, Hanoi, acquired its first golf course, albeit located some 46kms to the West of the city centre. In fact, it was the game’s sole venue in the entire North until 1998 and indeed one of only a handful of courses which existed nationally prior to the new millennium. While the exact date when, what is now the Lakeside course at BRG Kings Island, opened for play is somewhat unclear, its American designer/builder Robert McFarland would’ve had little notion that his visionary, if not risky, initiative would be the genesis of what would subsequently evolve!

In 2023 and 2024, Hanoi was awarded The World’s Best Golf City Destination by World Golf Awards.

In the decade since my first ‘exploratory’ visit here (2014), Hanoi has further emerged as a modern, buoyant commercial centre thus being a crisp reflection of Vietnam’s burgeoning economy (World Bank data). While most Hanoians will have benefitted from the ensuing lift in standards of living, there have no doubt been attendant growing pains and despite massive investment in transport infrastructure, getting around is still challenging.  Importantly though, Hanoi still retains its vibrancy. It is a city rich in history, culture and colour, the focal point of which is the ‘Old Quarter.’ With its founding going back to the 14th century, and the architectural influence of the French colonists very evident, this lattice work of 36 streets is a must visit. The many boutique hotels are great value and its cornucopia of eateries will tease your palate at modest cost. While the paradoxes, contrasts, cacophony of sounds, conflicting aromas, and not least, the traffic, may be unsettling to some, The Old Quarter is Hanoi’s soul, even its pulse. A stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake on a Friday evening - for the entertainment - or Sunday morning – for your psyche, is a visitor essential.

Meanwhile, golf courses have been built and lots of them!  Defining Hanoi geographically in golf course terms is arbitrary as there are actually only two clubs located in the city per se - Long Bien, a 27 hole public facility and Van Tri G.C which is exclusively private. However, within an c100km radius from the Old Quarter, and as at 1st Oct 2024, there were 21 clubs offering 30 ‘operational’ 18 hole equivalents - c85 in the entire country. Also, there were at a least two other new projects due for completion by years end and many of the existing clubs have plans for expansion to 36 holes. Furthermore, various sources report innumerable ‘greenfield’ developments, both within the North and nationally, are at various stages from conception to construction.

But it’s not just the growth in golf course numbers that’s impressive. It’s also the consistent standard of excellence on show, in terms of both presentation and design. Many of the worlds marquee names are represented – Nicklaus, Norman, Faldo etc. The integrated facilities are also of a commensurate quality. Some are beyond belief. Oh and importantly, many of the courses are floodlit for night play!

Perhaps it’s no surprise then that Hanoi was bestowed with the above accolade, although it’s unclear what geographical parameters were used. Regardless, from my observations, I’d probably concur with the judges. Here is a close-up view of a selection of old and new. 

BRG Kings Island – Lakeside Course

Any golf holiday to Hanoi should include a visit to the BRG Kings Island. About an hour’s drive from the Old Quarter takes you to the edge of Lake Dong Mo from where you are delivered by an efficiently dispatched five-minute boat ride to three excellent but differing championship standard 18-hole courses. As alluded to in the introduction, Lakeside was the first built in the North so has some historical significance. By virtue of its age, it’s also more of a classic design than that of the younger Mountain View and Kings courses. Smaller greens are one point of difference, but the Lakeside’s maturity is also strikingly evident by the abundance of large trees that surround each hole, amongst which appear to be species of towering Eucalypts. In fact, without any visual references to contrary, you could be easily forgiven for thinking you were on a golf course somewhere in Queensland. As the name suggests, quite a number of holes skirt Ho Dong Mo but the fairways offer generous width and there’s plenty of ‘bail out’ room. If you play smart and choose the right tee markers you will stay dry, and a good score is achievable. Holes 9, 17 and 18 are my stand outs from an attractive but deceptively challenging layout.

Should you wish to return to the ‘island’ – actually it isn’t an island, rather a 350Ha peninsula which is best accessed by boat – the Mountain View course (opened in 2004) offers a design perfectly fitting the natural rolling parkland landscape, occasionally kissing the lake margins, but blessed with omnipresent mountain vistas, while the Nicklaus designed Kings layout (2018) with its modern motifs offers a test of golf at another level. Regardless of what course you choose, you will enjoy the peaceful environment. A departing photo of the lake with the stunning backdrop of the Ba Vi Mountains will be an appropriate souvenir.

Thanh Lanh Valley Golf Club & Resort

Opening in Nov 2021, Thanh Lanh is one of the ‘new kids on the block’ and already asserting its presence. A pleasant 63km journey North into Vinh Phuc Province lands you in a valley under the gaze of the Tam Dao Mountains and a golf resort in a setting of breath-taking beauty. While the superb Faldo designed golf course forms the center piece, the resort also offers facilities to match including a clubhouse of tasteful yet functional design and exquisite craftsmanship (Best Clubhouse -2024 Vietnam Golf & Leisure Awards). The landscaping too is perfectly complementary! The 18-hole layout nestles between the fringe of the Tam Dao National Park and Lake Thanh Lanh with several holes cleverly jutting into the water in an unusual claw shape. At the bottom end of the course where the land elevates, some spectacular 360 panoramas are offered including back across the lake to the clubhouse. While water comes into play on eight or nine holes it somehow doesn’t feel too intimidating. However, a signature trait of Faldo’s design strategy is playing tricks with your perception of distance and here is no exception. Sir Nick’s design team have done an excellent job here delivering a golf course which will examine your skills but is still fun to play. Depending on which of the four tee positions you choose it can be resort friendly or pro-am ready. There are so many outstanding holes at Thanh Lanh it’s unjust to single any out but the par three 4th and splendid par 5 18th come to mind. Aside from the magnificent ‘clubhouse’ the ambitious development promises to deliver a 5 Star hotel (under construction) and over 700 villas etc. All this wrapped in a stunning environment and, with its own Temple!

Skylake Golf Club – Sky Course

My initial introduction to Skylake was in 2014 when it comprised only 18 holes – the very picturesque Lake Course. At that time the Sky course was still being coaxed into shape, subsequently opening within 12 months. Around nine years on, it has the appearance of golf course mature beyond its years. It also offers a contrast to its older sibling with its tropical forest ‘jungle’ like framework. However, the dramatic peripheral mountainous landforms, which are have a stronger visual presence when navigating the Lake 18, still make cameo appearances here but mostly from higher ground. While many of the holes do feature elevated greens, some with testing ‘turtleback’ contouring, the putting surfaces were very acceptable. The Korean designer (the resort is Korean owned and it’s a busy place!) has however, been very obliging with fairway width and with five tee positions (5600 -7300yds) offered, all abilities are catered for. There’s variety a plenty within the 18-hole configuration incorporating some decent elevation changes and pronounced doglegs. An, often concealed, assortment of ornamental lakes, ponds and creeks lie in wait too. Overall, despite one or two curiosities, it’s a very good design. The clubhouse, which commands views mostly over the Lake course, is pleasingly well appointed, deceptively spacious and thoughtfully organized. The resort also offers a range of additional amenities and leisure activities aimed primarily at the family or group market and there is accommodation available on site including some villas and a 5-star Wyndham branded hotel. For most though, a very manageable 38km each way journey from their Old Quarter hotel will be the preferred option.

Royal Golf Club – Queens Course

While this golf resort in Ninh Binh Province is, in this geographical context, right at the Southern extremity of the Hanoi’s jurisdiction, it’s of sufficient significance to demand inclusion in this review. The 111km road trip along the Cao Bai Expressway (SH1) brings you to the site occupied a millennia ago by the ancient capital and residence of Kings, Hoa Lu, hence the ‘Royal’ epithet. The town of Hao Lu still exists today but 25kms to the North. Brushing the edge of Lake Yen Thanh and in the shadow of the prehistoric Tam Diep Mountains co-exist two excellent golf courses of genuine appeal but remarkable contrast. The Kings course (opened Jan 2009) which is of a traditional verdant parkland style and the Queens, which has been voted as ‘Best New Course’ in the 2024 Vietnam Golf & Leisure Awards. To achieve this, the Nicklaus Design company has expertly woven 18 holes through, around, over and under some amazing topography. There are places, especially within the front nine, where it seems like you’re on another planet! You feel a sense of isolation amongst the myriad of ancient limestone shards and outcrops which define many holes. Although there is more open space on the back nine the typical Nicklaus design hallmark of smallish well-guarded greens are there to greet you e.g. the signature par 4 13th. This golf course is also a prime example of how the natural environment can be both preserved and enhanced by responsible design. I enjoyed my visit to Royal, the golf experience and the relaxed atmosphere of the place. I should’ve spent the night there - there are villas and a 37-room hotel on site - and played the Kings too. A ‘Princess’ course is also on the master plan.

BRG Legend Valley Country Club – South Course

To the South of the city, but only 60kms away, just reaching into the eco-tourism province of Ha Nam, is another newbie and what a delight it is too, visually and strategically. Opening mid-2023, the South Course, the first 18 completed of the planned 36-hole complex, occupies an old quarry and maneuvers its way around a cluster of limestone ‘mountains, a familiar landform of the region. Again, the creative handiwork of Team Nicklaus (they enjoy a large footprint in Vietnam) impresses. The way they’ve worked with the challenging natural topography and geology to bring a first-class golf course to fruition is remarkable. Yes, there are valleys. There are valleys within valleys, there are natural amphitheaters, sheer rock faces, lakes, streams. It’s all here and cleverly connected by a labyrinthine network of cart paths which represent some feat of construction. The hole-by-hole diversity offered is a key feature e.g. The daunting uphill par five 5th is followed by a spectacular but intimidating par three then some relief follows with a short well bunkered par 4. Although water comes into play on 13 holes, it’s manageable. It doesn’t overwhelm, well perhaps except for the par 3s! You also get plenty of width off the tee but the shorter the hole, the smaller and more heavily protected the green. At the time of my visit, the rather grand integrated clubhouse and 200 room hotels were in the final stages of completion but the temporary facilities were more than adequate. The North course is due for completion late 2025. If time permits you could also include BRG Legend Hill (40mins North of Hanoi) in your schedule. It too is well worth a visit.

Stone Highland Golf & Resort

The Northeastern province of Bac Giang is rated as one of Vietnam’s fastest growing and most economically robust regions and in which golf is playing an increasingly important role. With Corn Hill being the latest facility to join the established Amber Hills GC, it’s another new development which may be stealing provincial honors? And it’s one of the most remarkable golf courses I’ve ever played. Remarkable for no other reason than where it’s been built. Just celebrating its first birthday, Stone Highland is aptly named - oxygen required! Carved out of a rocky pinkish yellow geological prominence the first nine holes wind up, around, and back down it’s flanks with the more ‘user friendly’ second nine circling its perimeter. Measuring 157mts from the lowest point of the course to the highest, the elevation changes between and within many holes are a key feature of the clever but testing design. It is some feat of engineering and construction! It’s easy to allow the jaw dropping panoramic vistas to blur the focus the golf challenge demands. At first attempt, the White tees (5988 yds) are a sensible option. 5392 off the Reds is probably wiser. For a course of its youth, it’s maturing nicely and will only get better. A further 18 holes is on the way too. The other striking feature of this latest Truong An Company project is the clubhouse. The owner wanted a ‘period’ design reflecting the traditions and early history the game.

The result is spectacular, both visually and in its scale, if not somewhat florid. The interior is equally opulent with its exquisite fresco inspired art works and stately locker rooms. A beer and toasted sandwich (with fries) seemed inappropriate somehow. The older sibling, Stone Valley G C, back down in Ha Nam Province is also impressive.

Pheonix Golf Resort – Champions Course

This 54-hole resort has had something of a reputation ever since the gates opened in 2005 - then with only the ‘Pheonix’ course available. The Dragon and Champions layouts followed in 2007 and this scenic stage in Hoa Binh province was primed to deliver one of the best golf facilities in Vietnam?? Overlooked on previous visits but now my curiosity needs satisfying. After escaping the dusty, busy roads of Hoa Binh City, a few kms of serene countryside hints as to what soon unfolds. A landscape dramatic as you could find. Often referred to Ha Long Bay on land, lush verdant vegetation blanketed just about every square meter of the place aside from the sheer limestone faces of the towering prehistoric landforms and a few small lakes and streams. If Steven Spielberg ever decides to make a sequel to, or remake of, Jurassic Park, here is the perfect location. All three courses, although the work of three different designers, share much the same topographic characteristics. The Champion’s course was reputedly the best having hosted an Asian PGA Tour event soon after it opened. Nudging 7500yds off the Black tees it is certainly the longest. Off the Whites, it still presents a challenge and it’s enjoyable to play. There are some very good holes here. Although Mother Nature did most of the work, the par five, 7th is a masterstroke of visualization. The 4th 17th and 18th also impressed. The fairways are generously wide, and greens were very acceptable. But there is a niggle. The property looked tired and in need of some love. Some investment. The monolithic clubhouse is just too imposing and characterless. It looks incongruous as does the adjacent hotel. But they were clearly designed to cater for a specific market for whom they probably serve very well. I’m pleased my curiosity was satisfied.

Trang An Golf & Resort – Champions Course & Pines Course

We’ve all heard the expression ‘a Hidden Gem’ and probably used it ourselves - a café or perhaps a golf course? Returning to Ninh Binh Province, I found one! It was a bit of an effort getting there but well worth it! (NB: The soon to open new expressway will reduce the 2hr+ drive time considerably) What lies beyond the comparatively modest main entrance is truly amazing. Opening in 2015, Trang An is a privately owned outdoor recreational development wrapped around the Western shoreline of Lake Dong Chuong. It comprises two excellent 18-hole golf courses, several accommodation options including a camping ground, water activities, even an electric Go Kart track etc., complemented by various support buildings including a ‘form and function’ satisfying clubhouse. All this set harmoniously in a superbly landscaped botanical wonderland. Golfers are offered a choice of the softly undulating, well configured par 72 ‘Champions’ course, and the par three ‘Pines’ course (opened in 2019) - the best par 3 track I have ever seen. No debate. It’s compelling. The Thai designer expertly integrated most of the 18 holes within an old pine forest resulting is some serious elevational changes but facilitating some stunning views. The daunting but spectacular 16th hole, playing from 267 to 120 yds, depending on your tee selection, was voted the country’s ‘Best Par Three’ (2024 Vietnam Golf & Leisure Awards) and who could argue? While ‘island’ greens are now becoming somewhat clichéd, the concluding hole with its eye-catching back drop was a fitting finish. Four tee positions on each hole of both courses offer a challenge and enjoyable golf experience to players of all skill levels. With an overnight stay, you could (should) play both. As a bonus, the intoxication of your visual senses and the soothing relaxed vibe that pervades will make your visit indelibly memorable.

Things You Need to Know

Best time to visist Hanoi

You can pretty much play golf all year round in Hanoi and neighboring provinces, but each season has its pros and cons. During the warmer, moist summers (May – August) i.e. the low season, hotel rates are typically lower, and many clubs offer green fee promotions etc. however, August /early Sept is usually annual course maintenance program time e.g. green coring. Mid-Autumn/Winter (about Nov to Feb) offers more comfortable weather but it’s also high season so you will pay more. Dec/Jan can also be quite cool and overcast but dry! I prefer the ‘shoulder’ season (mid Sept – Oct) as you can get the best of both worlds with a bit of luck. Springtime (March to early May) is much the same. However, these are generalizations, and the seasons do variously overlap!

Playing golf

Avoid weekends! Tee time options will be fewer, and green fees will be significantly higher. Early AM tee times are best, but most courses are now floodlit so evening golf is a good option. NOTE: with rare exceptions, carts are compulsory. So are caddies. They are typically well trained and most do a great job. Tips are expected. Your golf tour operator should advise you accordingly.

By Warwick Neilson

Reproduced from the December issue of the Golfer Pacific NZ Magazine with the kind permission of the author and publisher.  All copyrights remain the property of Golfer Pacific Magazine”